The bio of my life with surfing:
—————– After the shortest night of the year in the western most point of the Mediterranean Sea: Sunscreen aromas in a wave-less ocean, 1974. A happy childhood surrounded by nature, a nature toppled by the hosting of the Barcelona 1992 summer Olympic games. Teenage years surrounded by concrete and textbooks, with shadows cast by flashes of rebellion and skateboarding; The desire to live in a world apart, by the chimney, a Peter Pan. As a poor student, I focused my taming in the audio-visual world, studying graphic design in the post Olympic boom. I opened my soul to creativity and Surf! Personal quests that will hopefully endure my whole life, my ideas are my dreams.
I started as an art director in one of the best advertising agencies in the country and achieved, with a total disregard towards politics, to have the candidate of the opposition elected as president of the Spanish government. Those days were days of lust, partying and intoxication, days of creativity mutilated by multinational brands, awards without recognition, money without time and surf in dribs and drabs.
After years hooked to a false illusion of work and prosperity I managed to see the light, the same light my father must have seen in his passing, the light harboured in me before I even had consciousness of life, a beam of energy that would provide me with my own light. I unplugged myself from my professional career, sold my car, left my girlfriend and took off. The “fish-kid” under his fig tree…
First came wild Costa Rica, I had to re-engage with my childhood dreams. Live freely with a surfboard under my arms. Scour one of the longest lefts wave in the world. Live the moment and roam barefoot among volcanoes.
Bagus Sekali! Finally, after 20 years of surfing I fulfilled another one of my dreams: To find myself inside a barrel! Indonesia is the place to be, its people and its waves guided me. I discovered a world close to mine, 365 days of sunscreen aromas.
5 months living in a van in Eastern Australia gave me food for thought: I wanted to step aside from nowadays surf’s path, a journey alien to trends, crowded peaks and big corporations in the surf industry. I like the idea of a ”camouflaged/underground” surf. When I started surfing in Barcelona there were barely any people, we were a small tribe that only showed up when the Mediterranean surrendered to our desires. We would come and go with the swell, leaving no trace, nobody knew we existed. Those days marked my life, and those days represent what surf means to me: an escape from reality, a dream, an idea
Currently I am involved in two projects related to surf:
“Agua de Surf” is born as a canvass opened to surf oriented creativity, where I can showcase my creative impulses: Photography, art direction…
On the other hand there’s “SURF KLAN” (activism in surf) that stems from my general discomfort towards the current course surf has taken worldwide and the clan the envelopes it.
The surf plague moves forward uncontrollably all over our seas and oceans, overcrowding peaks, fights on the beach, contamination in the waters, fashion posers, posh surf movies in Hollywood, pop-star professional surfers, artificial waves in distant deserts…
Surf Klan actively boycotts all of this surf paraphernalia. It is a call to our roots, to all of those yesteryear surf tribes, a dreamed utopia.
This is my little story of an eternal journey through the salty waters of our planet…
Marc Conca currently is in search of summer and waves in Barcelona.